Frequently Asked Questions About Radon Mitigation

What is the most common method to fix a radon problem?

Sub Slab Depressurization is the most common and most reliable radon reduction method. This method prevents radon from entering your home by drawing radon from beneath the house and venting it with a fan to the outside, where it is diluted.

How much does radon mitigation cost?

The average radon mitigation system is installed for under $1,500. Some homes require multiple mitigation techniques and /or systems, so the costs can vary. In new homes, the cost to install a passive system is less since the system is installed during construction.

Will sealing the cracks in the basement, reduce the radon levels?

No, sealing of wall and floor cracks is never a standalone radon technique. Radon is a gas, therefore, as a gas, it can move through a concrete slab. Sealing large cracks, however, improves radon system performance.

I’ve heard there is a special paint to seal radon from entering the home.

Another so called "fix” is painting the basement or applying a sealant to the basement floors and walls. Paint will not seal out radon. Many state radon programs warn against the false claims of sealants sold for this purpose. You can read their full statement about sealants on their website.

We don’t have a crawlspace, can we still have radon?

Yes, radon can move through a concrete slab, through block and concrete walls or any other building material in the home. If you have a radon source under the slab, you could have an elevated radon level in the home.

How long does it take to install a radon system?

Most radon reduction systems can be installed in just a few hours. At Home Radon has installed thousands of systems over the years and we are extremely efficient with our installations.

Why does the radon fan have to be outside my home?

The EPA protocol states that the fan be placed outside the home due to the fear that some rubber coupling may leak and then radon would be pumped into your home or another reason to reduce the risk of extracting conditioned air from the home. However, it is acceptable to mount the fan in the attic or garage. These installations entail extra costs and are not feasible on all homes.

Do you have to use that bulky pvc pipe?

Aluminum downspout material has been tried in the past and due to some installer problems, has been banned in many states. Metal downspouts have a great heat transfer and can fill up with ice in winter, disabling the system when you need it most. Also leaks at the seams could create ice damming and damage to the home’s exterior. No alternative material has yet to be approved by the EPA.

How long do the fans last?

The manufacturer warrants their fan for five years from the date of installation. National average is 11 years. However, we have replaced fans that have been in operation for nearly 20 years.

Why does the exhaust pipe go way up to the roof?

EPA wants to keep the exhaust gas from coming back into the house; therefore, there are three basic requirements or protocols.
The exhaust must be…
A.) At least ten feet off the ground
B.) Above the eave (not necessarily the edge) of the roof
C.) Either ten feet away from, or two feet above any window

Why don’t all systems have a cap or screen at the top? Won’t rain and bugs get in?

A cap or screen creates a likely place for ice to form, as the warm moist air exhausts into the winter cold. Also, in general, a fan exhausts 20 -40 cubic feet per minute of air, so bugs are no problem. The fan should be running constantly. The fan is designed to take a fair amount of rain. Even a three inch rainfall would produce only a cupful of water if it all flowed down to the bottom. The system actually removes much more moisture than it could possibly let in!

Does a radon reduction system provide any other benefits?

Yes. Some of the comments we hear frequently from our customers are "the dehumidifier seems to run less”, "the house feels cleaner”, and "the musty smell in the basement is gone.” It has been estimated that an active radon system can draw a gallon of water from beneath the slab every two hours, thus reducing the bacterial growth under your house. Good news for allergy sufferers!

Does that glass tube on my radon pipe tell me how much radon is in my house?

No. The u-tube manometer is an indicator of the pressure that is created by the active radon mitigation system. It is not an indication of the radon level. The level in the indicator can change depending on many variables. Generally, the tighter the soil, the higher the pressure, and the more porous the soil, less pressure would be indicated. It is also possible for tight damp soil to dry out over time with a radon system, which could result in less pressure than before. Radon Testing is the only method to check the effectiveness of the radon mitigation system.

If you seal my sump pump, how can I tell if the pump is working? How can I fix it if it fails?

At Home Radon uses a two-part sump lid for sump pump installation. Our unique 2-part lid has a window on one side to allow you to visually inspect your sump operation at any time. If you need to eventually replace your sump pump, you only have to remove half of the lid with a screwdriver to access your pump.

Why do you need to bother with my sump at all?

The idea is to put a vacuum on the drain tile that surrounds the foundation. The builder put it there to collect water, but we can use it to collect radon gas. Also, because the drain tile is connected to the sump, we have to seal it to hold the vacuum.

My home has a very high radon level. Can it be fixed?

Good news! In our experience, the homes with the very high initial readings have been the easiest to fix, and have had the lowest post-mitigation levels. Here’s why. Very high radon levels mean very loose soil conditions, and in these situations our systems vacuum will cover the entire footprint of the house, reducing radon levels to near outdoor levels.

Homes with slightly elevated radon levels on clay soil are often more difficult to mitigate. In these cases, the radon might be coming in from one fissure, and the tight clay might prevent our system vacuum from reaching it. It could take several times and several suction points before finding the right location. But don’t worry; At Home Radon has a 100% success rate and we GUARANTEE that your radon level will be reduced to 4.0 pCi/L or less.

Another company guarantees to get the radon level below 2pCi/L and you only guarantee 3.9, why should I go with you?

"Promises are only as good as the company making them.” More than 95% of our radon mitigation systems reduce the radon lever to below 2pCi/L, and all of them are below 4pCi/L. "We simply will not promise you something that we cannot deliver on 100% of the time.” In some situations, it simply may not be possible to get the radon levels much below 4pCi/L due to the homes construction design.

 
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